Large Cage for Gila Monsters
Question
I have 3 captive reared (legal) adult Gila Monsters (Heloderma suspectrum). Two are full size adults 18-24” long, one is a young adult, 15” long, all are females and can be housed together, however I would like the option to be able to divide the cage somehow if possible so that I can add a male should I choose to get one in the future (at some times of the year they would require separate enclosures).
Something with approximately 4-6 sq ft of floor space should be adequate. But larger would be considered. This enclosure would be a decorative part of the family room in my home, I would prefer something longer than deeper front to rear, or something built to fit into a corner. Overall space for the cage is currently not an issue.
I have reared these from hatchlings and have maintained them for over 10 years with great success in typical sweater box arrangements using a snake rack with under floor heat strips using plumbers tape on a thermostat and aspen shavings as bedding in the tubs. I am now ready to transition to a more showy / “Zoo Like” display environment complete with natural décor (I have a bunch of cool red rock and sand from Moab Utah) but don’t want to sacrifice any safety or heath issues in their new environment.
I could re-use my current heat tape system in the new design if it allows for under floor heating and I would like some type of design accommodation incorporated for both full spectrum and incandescent lighting as well. Water dishes should be as large as the biggest animal, heavy in weight, level with the flooring, and removable. All surfaces must be water proof and easily cleanable.
The following are requirements I must adhere to according to a local City ordinance in the keeping of Gila Monsters (per my permit) Please let me know if you cage design would meet them. This is cut and pasted right off of the permit application.
(3) Enclosure Dimensions and Other Requirements for Gila Monsters and Beaded Lizards. For each lizard, minimum cage length shall be one and one-half times the length of the longest confined lizard and minimum cage width shall be four times the width of the largest confined lizard. Cages must have adequate ventilation, fresh water, and access to sunlight or full spectrum fluorescent lighting with appropriate shade also available. For each additional lizard, the cage floor area shall be increased one hundred percent. Doors are to close securely and be key-locked.
If you have a design you think I can build/use please let me know
Scott
Answer
This is not too demanding in some respects. It sounds like a 5-6’x2’ cage would be ideal for them but you could probably drop it to 4’x2’. The divider is the more difficult aspect. The larger the cage, the better the divider would work as the resulting two sides would not look out of place. I would recommend the cage be designed as two cages ie with two sets of sliding doors or Perspex doors (whichever you choose), with the divider being a piece that can be inserted through sliders or similar mechanism, such as a timber strips. You could also use doors slides vertically and have a narrower divider.
The decorative part is a bit harder. You can use laminated MDF and paint the edges or get them professionally finished on the sides. Making a false bottom sounds the best way to deal with the level water dish. That way you can have the dish level with the floor (or near enough – perhaps a little bit sticking up) and can attach heat tape to the base of the floor underneath. You might want to make the floor removable so that you can repair or replace the heat tape (I’m not sure of its lifespan but it appears to last a very long time)
You might have to make one yourself. This can be done using a large ice-cream container or similar container cut off to the level of the floor, filled with cement or a hardening compound, and having a smaller container pushed down into it to created the cavity. This resulting bowl could then sit into a cut out of the floor, dropping down to the lower floor.
I’m not sure if you want the lighting hidden or not, but again, you just make the top of the cage higher and have a higher front to hide the lighting. This way you can have the UV and incandescent lighting. You may even choose to use basking lights and not have the heat tape – although I like the heat tape for its evenness of temperature.
Essentially the plans are for people to either use straight out or expand upon, using the information and ideas provided.
Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to build enclosures
for reptiles"
Find out how to build these cages as well as arboreal cages. Full color pictures,
detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions.
http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com
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