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I am ... very happy with your plans, the organization that you have put into it and I am extremely happy with the response I have gotten from you when I have encountered a problem.
It sure does save money. At the same time it allows me and others like me to experience making the cage for our animal (animals) that we care so much about. I think that when someone takes the time to sit down and make something like this for their animal it really shows how much they care for them and respect them.

With your plans you can also alter the cage to each and everyone's specifications, or needs. I think what you are doing is wonderful and I want to thank you again.

Robert Hansford


"This is going to make an 11 year old and his lizard Rex very happy".


Spent $108.00 at Lowes, another $65.00 at Home Depot buying things that Lowes didn't have..... Spending time with my son in a hardware store.... PRICELESS!"


"Overall, the best thing I have found from the cage designs... is that:
They work!!!!

They allow you to view and touch your Iguana from all sides, This is a must!

Once you have the material list you don't go back to the hardware store.

Just follow the instructions and it comes out perfect.

Your maintenance will be much easier.

Your iguana will thank you

Once again, you will have built something cool. "

Regards and best to all our Green Iguana friends, Lance and Joey Portwood Glidden, Texas ".


"Very well thought-out designs"



Where do you start when building a snake cage?

Mark Chapple

When I was making my first cage my wife Cheryl came out into the shed and asked me what I was doing. I mumbled something about "building snake cage" whilst ernestly trying to figure out some small detail or putting in an annoying screw (I'm not sure which), to which she rolled her eyes and wandered back into the house - I think she was shaking her head.

Any way, I wanted to make a good cage. I had made one but it was far too small as I had divided it into two sections by placing a timber divider in the middle. It cut the cage in half and was close enough to the floor to prevent interaction but still left enough space to slide a heat mat under. It covered about 1/2 to 3/4 of the cage either side of the middle.

I decided to do it that way as it cheaper than making two cages and the two children's pythons were still small, having just graduated from the plastic containers. (When I housed them in the plastic containers I used small terracotta plant bases for their hides. I cut a little out of the side of the base for the entrance - this is a good trick for juveniles and young snakes or lizards)

I housed the two juvenile carpet pythons in that cage - one each side. But as they grew I knew I needed to make another cage.

So I did some research and with a bit of help from pet shops and some research on the web I was able to come up with what I thought was a simple snake cage design that was easy to make, strong, looked good, had good thermal properties, easy access, lockable and easily maintained.

I suppose I should back up a bit and tell you how I made the first snake cage. I had two children's pythons, my third attempt at keeping snakes I'm not proud to say. It was bit different than I thought.

Having two juvenile snakes about to graduate from their small plastic cages meant I thought I had to make two snake cages - that meant two of lots of things like heat mats, thermostats (I know there are alternatives), lighting and twice the amount of materials.

So I decided, after multiple diagrams and fiddling about, to make one cage and divide it in half. I still needed to heat both sides. I placed a divider in the cage. It was close enough to the floor to prevent the snakes going underneath yet high enough to allow the Flexiwatt heat pad to slide underneath.

I also made the divider so that it fitted in the cage exactly but only held in place by screws. These screws could then be removed when I wanted to make the cage larger and build a second cage.

I made a number of mistakes with this cage.

The front was glass but was fitted. I put a lid on the top that was hinged but as I had no experience, it didn't occur to me that his was a poor design. I soon found that it was. I should have made the door at the front and either had sliding or drop down door. The top door was a good idea, but not on its own.

I chose to make the door on my new cage a single drop down door for a number of reasons.

First and foremost was ease. I didn't have to slide the door and get a reptile from the other end. There is a down side and if I had dragons or frisky reptiles I would make either a sliding door or two drop downs or, alternatively a combination ie a drop down door at the front with a hinged roof on top. This would allow ease of access from above to retrieve the reptiles and also ease of access from the front for cleaning and accessorizing.

Drop down doors are also the easiest to make and the most forgiving of mistakes. Sliding doors require a lot more effort and time and given that all I wanted was access to my snakes, I decided they were not worth the extra effort.

I suppose space was not an issue either. If I had limited room then a sliding door would be much more satisfactory.

As I had carpet pythons, I did not need to have a UV light - usually you can use supplements to provide any extra dietary needs with snakes. If I did want to put a UV light in the first cage for a lizard then I would also have some difficulty as the angle of access when installing a light would make it difficult. The light fitting would have to be installed at the same stage as the half roof.

I also chose to make my own heat mats using Flexwatt. My first commercial mat was far too hot and buckled one of my plastic cages and the timber it was sitting on. I had to throw it out. According to the instructions it was supposed to self regulate and not require a thermostat. It didn't work. So I decided to make my own heat mat and attach it to a thermostat. No problems so far.

I drilled holes in the back of the snake cage and dismantled an old electrical cord. I attached a plug I bought from the hardware and attached it to one end and I soldered the other ends onto the mat. I wanted to use a detachable plug so I could thread the cord through a small hole in the back of the cage. I wanted the hole to be small enough to prevent escape, even by small snakes.

The soldering was a bit difficult as the soldering iron had not been refurbished ( I have since refurbished it and it works perfectly now - you can find out how to refurbish your soldering iron in my book "How to Build Reptile Enclosures".)

I also had to drill a small hole in the back of the cage for the thermostat probe, which sat on top of the heat mat. I stuck the heat mat down with some tape but I think I might try double sided tape in future as it does tend to come off the base.

I could have put the heat mat on the base and then placed thin ply or something similar over the top. I have yet to try this method. I have seen snake cages where tiles were glued and placed over the heat mat, after applying a layer of glue or similar substance.

This seems a good idea. I do not know the life span of a heatmat but provided they can last a long time, this seems to have some merit for cleaning and maintenance purposes. I prefer to use melamine on the base as it is easily washable. Silicone should be placed around the edges to prevent water damage and leakage into the joins. There is a trick to making a smooth silicone joint.

Placing the lights in the snake cage was relatively easy. I decided that I would place an in-line switch to each light so I could control them from outside the cage without having to scrounge around finding the cord or a switch on a switch board.

I have quite a good range of tools in my shed but I really didn't need a lot to make the cages. I think for most people, cutting the timber square is one of the biggest issues. There are ways around this so that constructing the cage is relatively easy (you can find these out in the book "How to Build Reptile Enclosures").

I did a lot of looking around at various cages, trying to determine the best material to build them from. I built mine using MDF. I use it for a number of reasons.

  • It has good thermal properties.
  • It's easy to use.
  • It comes out well painted.
  • It's easy to sand.
  • It does not buckle easily
  • You can work with relatively thin (1/2") material making it not too heavy

You do need to be a bit careful cutting it and I would advise using a mask. It can be very dusty.

You also need to be a bit careful putting in screws. Put them in too hard and you damage the hole. They will not hold properly.

I would not advise making a snake or other reptile cage from pine or cedar. These materials can be dangerous to reptiles. A few pieces of pine for framing is fine but not the whole cage.

Another good material is plywood. I do not use it mostly because it can be splintery. It does look good however if you finish it with a timber finish or some sort of clear coat.

I also painted my cages. I let them dry out for about a week before I put the animals in there. This was to ensure that the paint had time to cure and that the amount of vapor it was releasing had declined enough to be no threat to the snakes. You can pop your head in the cage after 4 or 5 days and smell the inside of the cage. When the paint smell has almost gone that the snake or lizard cage will be safe to put the animals in.

After painting it's just a matter of adding locks, door holders and accessories like climbing branches, rocks, hides, water bowls, fake rock walls and whatever you fancy.

My two children's pythons are now happily existing in their habitats.

I am also planning to get a Darwin, Olive or maybe a Brisbane Carpet Python. My daughter has some blue tongued lizards (skinks) and we also have a bearded dragon and a snake-necked tortoise which is kept in a pond in the back yard.

Good Luck.


Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to Build Reptile Enclosures"
Find out how to build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions.



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